The Jam Tree gastro pubs were new to us. There are branches in Kensington and Chelsea, but the latest, the one in North Street, Clapham Old Town, was the most convenient for us, and, most important, dogs are welcome.
It’s quirky! A large space on different levels, with a long, welcoming copper-topped bar running along one wall; the big area cleverly divided into smaller sections by the use of a partition. It’s furnished with an eclectic mix including: chunky wooden tables, metal chairs, somewhat worn sofas, copper globe lights, delicate jam tree designed wall paper and for some reason a number of what appear to be tin tiles on parts of the ceiling.
The menus are certainly not quirky. Executive Head Chef James Browne, a local Clapham area lad by all accounts, has devised an all-day menu which is reassuringly familiar with its seasonal British favourites that sit alongside or are given a twist by, as the menu describes it, ‘a celebration of Colonial flavours’. The menu changes regularly but I do hope the cod and prawn fish cakes (£13.50), served with spring greens, poached egg and parsley sauce stays put. Likewise the Pan Fried Sea Bass (£16) with Pea Puree, Crayfish Croquettes and White Wine and Cream and for starters the Hot Potted Smoked Haddock (£7.50) with Brown Toast and the Smoked Chicken, Pistachio and Ham Hock Terrine (£7) with pickles and toast, all of them delicious. We had no room for puddings but for those who have, they start from £6 and a platter of four cheeses is £8.50. Bottles of wine start from £17 but are also available by the glass or carafe. The Jam Tree also offers a special Saturday brunch and Sunday lunch menu.
Neither was the service quirky; it was excellent – and the third member of the party – the four-footed one was made to feel very welcome too. In fact his water bowl appeared as soon as he arrived.
En route to the Ladies I spotted a nice little sitting area beside what I thought was a bookcase. Actually it also a concealed door that opens onto an over-spill dining/private party/events function room, which in turn opens out onto a rather stylish outdoor area. The garden can also be accessed from the corridor.
The Jam Tree is open from midday for coffees and lunches Sunday – Friday and from 10am on Saturdays. Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings until midnight are ‘party’ nights.
I enjoyed it so much that three weeks later I was back again introducing it to some other friends. Luckily the fish cakes were still on the menu! A.H.
The Jam Tree, 13 – 19 Old Town Clapham, London SW4 0JT. www.thejamtree.com; Tel: 020 3397 4422.