Think Scotland – think the stunningly beautiful, dramatic and wild scenery of big skies, coastlines, lochs, moors and mountains, historic towns and a rich heritage; think whisky, haggis and shortbread; think Caithness, Ross-shire and Sutherland, in other words think the North Highlands.
But this region of Scotland offers more than whisky, haggis and shortbread. Working amongst the beautiful scenery are a number of men and women passionate about the food they produce. Several of the Scotland Food and Drink producers recently came down to London for events showcasing the best of Scotland’s food and drink.
The producers were accompanied by Kevin Dalgleish (click here for his Cock-a-leekie recipe) a chef, originally hailing from the Borders, currently Executive Chef of the world renowned luxury retreat, Ackergill Tower, Wick, Caithness to give advice and discuss the produce from a chef’s point of view. Kevin more than appreciates its quality and creates his dishes from the best seasonal produce available. Vegetables and herbs are picked fresh from the hotel’s gardens, shell fish from their own creels, wild salmon from their own nets and game from their own guns – venison, duck and goose.
Ackergill Tower, originally a 15th century castle, overlooking Sinclair’s Bay has 27 individual and luxurious bedroom suites and offers exceptional food, wine, comfort and service. Wick Airport is just 10 minutes away and the hotel’s Land Rovers can pick up guests direct from the plane. Visit www.amazingretreats.com/ackergilltower
Whisky Galore
There are many distilleries (over 120) producing whiskies with subtle differences from peaty to a light malt, all worth sampling. It is the world’s most popular spirit and it is claimed that 36 bottles of Scotch are exported every second.
Glenmorangie is one of Scotland’s whisky producers, the company dating back to 1843. They produce a whisky noted for its sweetness and complexity. Visitors to the region will find the distillery on the banks of the picturesque and peaceful Dornoch Firth. The whisky is aptly named as in Gaelic Glenmorangie means ‘valley of tranquility’. It is made in Scotland’s tallest malt whisky stills from golden barley and the distillery’s own mineral rich spring water before being matured in bourbon oak casks and left to mature for 10 years.
The Glenmorangie Private Edition is an award winning special range. Glenmorangie Sonnalta PX is a full bodied whisky, extra matured in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks whilst Glenmorangie Finealta is a recreation of a 1900s recipe from the Glenmorangie archives with subtle notes of peat. The latest edition is Glenmorangie Artein. Scots Gaelic for stone, Artein is an assemblage of 15 and 21 year old single malts, extra matured in Super Tuscan wine casks. http://www.glenmorangie.com/our-whiskies
Salmon to Shellfish and …
Did you know that Scottish salmon is exported to over 30 countries world-wide. Twenty years ago it was the first foreign product to be given the Rouge Quality mark by the French Ministry for Agriculture; in 2004 it received Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status and last year it was recognised as the ‘best farmed salmon in the world’ by international seafood buyers. The clear, fresh water of the sea lochs allow the salmon to grow properly and the strong currents mean that the fish have to keep constantly swimming so producing well flavoured and textured firm flesh. Over two thirds of the world’s langoustines are sourced in Scotland and some 60 species of fish and shellfish are landed there by one of the most modern fishing fleets in Europe.
Wester Ross Salmon, based at Ardmair near Ullapool, is Scotland’s smallest independent salmon farming company rearing salmon from the fry stage. It currently operates three seawater sites producing some 1500 tonnes per year. Visit www.wrs.co.uk
Keltic Seafare specialise in diver caught scallops, and creel caught langoustine, lobsters, crabs etc as well as seasonal wild mushrooms. Visit www.kelticseafare.com
…Smoked Fish
Summer Isles Foods is a small smokehouse on a croft in Achiltibuie, near Ullapool producing an extensive and delicious range of smoked salmon, Achiltibuie kippers and other fish. The company also sell smoked meat as well as cheeses.
Sides of salmon are marinaded in brine along with molasses, juniper berries, rum and black peppercorns to a recipe that has not changed for some 30 years. Following the marinade the salmon are left to dry before being cool smoked from oak shavings. The shavings come from oak whisky casks come from the cooperage at Craigellachie on Speyside. Their peat smoked salmon is smoked over peat freshly cut from the Achnahaird Bay. Visit www.summerislesfoods.com
Quality Meat
The lush, rich grass feeds grazing stock ensuring the superb flavour of Scotch beef, lamb, mutton and venison. Scotch pork is excellent too as is the game. The meat sampled in London melted in the mouth.
The story of North Ronaldsay mutton dates back to a strain of sheep brought to the island in prehistoric times, probably 5000 years ago. The 3000 strong herd live wild grazing on seaweed, giving the meat a definite gamey taste. It’s lean, iodine rich and simply delicious. The islanders are only allowed to take a small number of the three to five year olds each year – approximately 300 carcasses are available each year.
Ardgay Game is one of the companies supplying game and wild venison, and has done for the last 30 years. They are the only game processor in Scotland with Scottish Quality Wild Venison approval. The company is based in Bonar Bridge on the shores of the Kyle of Sutherland but visitors to the London markets of Broadway and Whitecross Street will find Andy Waugh of Wildgame selling Ardgay’s raw meat at the former and street food at the latter with a passion and enthusiasm for wild venison and game that is infectious. Visit www.wildgameco.co.uk and www.ardgaygame.co.uk
Cheese…
Crowdie, it is said, was introduced into Scotland by the Vikings in the eighth century. It is a creamy, but crumbly cheese with a slightly ‘sour’ taste known in Gaelic as Gruth. Its popularity declined but it has come back into fashion partly thanks to dairy farmers and cheese makers like Rory and Susannah Stone of Highland Fine Cheeses of Tain. Also included in their range of cheeses are mould-ripened cheeses Strathdon Blue and award-winning Morangie Goat’s Brie plus Blarliath Farmhouse Cheddar and Caboc made from an old family recipe for a double cream cheese originally from the Isle of Skye in the 14th century but today coated with pinhead oatmeal.
30.4.12 NB: The Foody Traveller has just heard that the Morangie goat’s brie is now available along with some sheep’s brie and sheep’s blue.
Visit www.hf-cheeses.com. The family also has some rental cottages for visitors who are welcome to look round the diary and stock up with cheese.
Visit www.taincottages.co.uk
The Clark family at Connage Highland Dairy make award-winning cheeses from old and new recipes from milk from their own herd in the Moray Firth area. Well-known celebrity cooks such as the Hairy Bikers made Crowdie at Connage and Lady Claire Macdonald maintains that their Connage Clava Brie is the best brie in the world. The company also run occasional cheese tasting courses. Visit www.connage.co.uk
…and Biscuits
Stewart McConnach learnt how to make biscuits using traditional recipes from his baker father, Bob. Caithness Biscuits located just outside Thurso, about 25 miles from John O’Groats produce a range of handmade butter shortbreads, biscuits and oakcakes. Visit www.caithnessbiscuits.co.uk
Other biscuits definitely worth nibbling are the award-winning biscuits from Reids of Caithness. Look out for the Oatie range with its Original, Maple & Pecan, Banoffee and Stem Ginger flavours. Donald Reid began his bakery in 1963 using recipes handed down from his grandmother. Today the third generation of Reid’s still use some of her recipes.
Visit www.reidsofcaithness.com
For information on Scotland, The Land of Food and Drink visit www.sdi.co.uk/foodanddrink