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At The Pass

White Swan at Blyth – Notts

We were heading for lovely Hodsock Priory, on the outskirts of Blyth, Notts for a mini break and to look at bluebells. We had planned on being there for snowdrop time but snow intervened. However, we were ‘programmed for a visit’ so decided to swap February for May and bluebells for snowdrops. (More on Hodsock in a future Foody!) We were too early to check into the Priory and in any event we needed lunch.

There is a village green at Blyth, there was easy parking and across the green there was a pub. There was a friendly welcome and an ‘Of course’ reply to our tentative ‘Could we just have a sandwich please?

One of us chose ham, the other prawns – we shared half and half. Lovely bread, well-filled and presented sandwiches (beautiful ‘proper’ ham as my mother would have called it) accompanied by homemade parsnip crisps and a salad. We looked at each other and on the spot booked a table for dinner.

‘You have a table near the fire’ said our friendly host handing us menus. And what menus. If the cooking proved to be as interesting as the menu we were in for a treat. As it turned out it was!

Our choice of starters: Lowna Dairy Rolled Goats Cheese with sun dried tomato and goats cheese mousse, black olive tapenade, toasted ciabatta cherry tomatoes, soused shallots, cheese and tomato puff £6.75; Ham Hock Terrine with pickled cucumber, raisin juice gel, Cumberland compote, micro leaves £7.50. I can definitely remember ordering and being bowled over by my main course of Confit Chicken Breast with chicken kiev lollipop, dauphinoise potato, carrot puree, parma ham and green beans, white wine and lemon thyme pan juices £13.95. My memory eludes me at this point, our other main dish might have been the Nottinghamshire Saddleback Pork, but I think it was the Pan Seared Filey Landed Sea Bass with buttered crushed new potatoes, grilled asparagus spears, lemon grass and chervil sabayon, Whitby crab salsa and samphire £18.95. Dessert: a pretty platter of raspberry cheesecake, raspberry kirsch and white wine jelly with summer fruits, raspberry and strawberry sorbet £6.25. Every single mouthful – delicious.

By now we had gathered that our friendly hosts were Richard and Claire, newish owners of the White Swan. They and their chefs not only support local farmers and suppliers as far as possible, they acknowledge them by name too. Virtually everything seen on the menu has been made in house and it is also freshly made to order- as they say good food takes time to prepare, no fast food here! Richard has been a chef and takes pride in how things should be done. He also believes in encouraging his chefs to reach their full potential.

By now the evening was getting late and the cosy pub with its beams and brick walls and dining area was emptying. ‘Could we please,’ we asked ‘say thank you to the chefs.’ A few minutes later Richard called us round to the kitchen. In front of us two delightful and modest young men – Head Chef Billy Frost (21yrs old) and Apprentice Pastry Chef Lewis Platts (18yrs old). If they continue to cook the way they are at the moment they both have brilliant careers ahead of them and those of us lucky enough to eat their food are in for treats. A.B.

The White Swan at Blyth, High St, Blyth, Notts S81 8EQ. Tel: 01909 591222

www.whiteswanatblyth.co.uk

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