At The Pass

Quantus, London

I nearly bought my first flat in Turnham Green. Sadly the purchase of the flat fell through and I turned my back on Chiswick.

Nevertheless I had a strange feeling of going home as I left the tube station and made my way to Devonshire Rd in search of Quantus, the restaurant where I had arranged to meet my friend Ben for lunch.

The restaurant is tucked down leafy Devonshire Rd (no 38) – an interesting road with its mix of small shops and houses. I was far too early. But Leo, who turned out to be the General Manager, welcomed me in and sat me at the table close to the small bar with a view out onto the street so I could keep an eye out for Ben. I liked the red rose on each table and the snowy white linen.

It’s a fairly small restaurant (44 covers), smart and elegant ,yet casual at the same time. I spent ages wandering round examining the black and white photographs on the walls, with Leo stopping every now and then to tell me about them and chat as he went about his duties.

On the menu

Quantus Scallops

I have a weakness for scallops, and even though the dish attracted a £3 supplement I had to try it. Stunningly delicious is the only way I can think of describing those Scottish scallops with parsnip puree and crisps, plus chorizo and micro herbs. From the very clean plate I guessed that Ben had enjoyed his tataki salmon. There were more clean plates after our beef casserole and roasted cod. I’m still not sure how Ben managed to find roomfor the chocolate & mascarpone cremosa, crushed m&m’s with an amaretto and espresso syrup dessert – but he did.

The two course lunch costs £15.50 – staggeringly good value for a beautifully presented, cooked and served meal. The menus, with their subtle hint of South America, are designed by Argentinian consultant chef Juan Zuliani. Quantus has an interesting wine list too. A glass of Prosecco costs a very reasonable £5 a glass and there is a good choice of wines by the glass or carafe for anybody not wanting to consume a bottle.

Unfortunately I never got to congratulate Enes, Leo’s co-managing director, as Enes was in the kitchen cooking our fabulous lunch.

Before going to the restaurant I had looked up the word ‘Quantus’. It’s Latin and can be translated as ‘as great as’. As Ben and I walked back to the tube station ‘Yes’ I thought – ‘great’ a good word for this restaurant.

I now rather regret not buying that first flat. Oh the joy of having a restaurant like Quantus just around the corner.

Quantus, 38 Devonshire Road, Chiswick, London W4 2HD. Tel:020 8994 0488.

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